New Standards By Omega Replica Watches

On December 9th 2014, I joined replica Omega’s press conference where they introduced their new standards and certification and the important role of independent institute METAS. A long-winded and opinionated report about that announcement can be found here.

Since then, Omega has worked hard to set-up the processes needed to meet these new standards and to realize them in such way, that it can be done for high production numbers. I will get back to the details of these standards later on, but let me get a few mis-understandings out of the way about the name and the role of METAS and Omega with regards to the certification.

Chronometer, Master Chronometer, METAS: Confused?

When Omega announced these plans last year, they were using the ‘Officially Certified’ as definition for Swiss replica watches that were tested and certified. So that would mean that these watches would carry “Master Co-Axial, Officially Certified” on the dial. This changed during the course, as Omega decided – probably to end all confusion – that the new indication on the dial will be “Master Chronometer”. Chronometer because the COSC certification is still being executed for their movements and the pre-fix Master as they go a few steps further than that. Besides that, you can only use ‘Chronometer’ when a movement has been tested and certified by the COSC. It is a protected name.

omega Replica Watches

Whether the combination, ‘Master Chronometer’, is a protected name is not entirely sure (probably there are some legal things pending at the moment) but Omega encourages other brands to also meet the new standards and have their cheap replica watches certified by METAS in order to use the ‘Master Chronometer’ on the dials of their watches as well. According to METAS, other bands have showed interest in becoming compliant to these new standards as well, which would allow them to use ‘Master Chronometer’ as well. In my opinion it is an absolute necessity that Omega will bring some awareness around the use of ‘Master Chronometer’ to consumers, as any other watch brand that has chronometer-rated movements can use ‘Grand Chronometer, King Chronometer, Grandmaster Chronometer etc. etc.’ without having to comply to any other standards than those of COSC. It needs explanation in order to get the right amount of appreciation by consumers.

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The role of METAS is quite clear (if you ask me, but my former life as an IT auditor might have something to do with that): Ensuring that Omega has all processes in place for the required test work on their Master Chronometer watches, ensuring that the test activities are performed accordingly to these processes and of course to make sure that the results meet the requirements of the Master Chronometer standards. This does not mean that METAS works on the Master Chronometer watches, this would be a conflict of interest, of course. METAS is an independent party, that only monitors the processes and activities that are related to testing the Master Chronometer watches. The department inside the Omega HQ building in Bienne that is responsible for testing the Master Chronometer watches has an office for METAS employees, who are there to do tests on samples and to monitor the test activities and processes. Just for clarification: All Omega Master Chronometer watches are tested, piece-by-piece. The certification is not based on sampling. In case a Swiss Replica watches does not meet the requirements will be treated as an exception and needs to go back to a specific point of the production or assembly process to be fixed or adjusted. Watches that show a certain deviation when being re-tested by METAS (even when it is still within the requirements), need to be analyzed and explained.

One will understand that to set-up a workflow like that for an industrialized process requires quite a bit of capacity and investments. Omega was happy to show us their METAS Labs as well as their new T1 production facility of the 8xxx movements in Villeret. The METAS Labs are located inside the main building in Bienne and will stay there for at least another 12 months. Right next to the Omega HQ building,  there is a construction site where a new building will arise to – among others – the METAS Labs will move to. The current capacity to test and certify the Master Chronometer watches is ‘only’ a few hundred per day, but this will then grow to larger quantities.

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For now, the Master Chronometer is used first for the new Omega Globemaster collection. We covered this new collection earlier this year, click here. However, we received a Sedna gold Globemaster not too long ago to give it a spin for a couple of weeks and we will soon report our thoughts and findings on this piece.

Master Chronometer – Specifications

As written above, the Omega Globemaster will be the first timepiece to have Master Chronometer written on the dial (these watches will be delivered in phases to the Omega boutiques and retailers, starting first week of November). Later on, the De Ville Hour Vision and Seamaster PloProf in titanium will follow. Around the year 2020, most Omega watches with Co-Axial movements will be a Master Chronometer certified timepiece.

Besides the Chronometer certification by COSC, the Master part adds the following specifications:

THE EIGHT METAS APPROVED TESTS

1.   AVERAGE DAILY PRECISION OF THE WATCH

This test runs over 4 days and checks the daily precision of the watch in real life wearing conditions.  The watch is initially placed in six different positions and two alternating temperatures, then exposed to magnetism of 15,000 gauss, then demagnetized, then finally checked again in the same differing positions and temperatures. For each step, a photograph is taken of the watch and checked 24 hours later for accuracy against UTC time.

2.   FUNCTION OF COSC-APPROVED MOVEMENT DURING EXPOSURE TO 15,000 GAUSS MAGNETIC FIELD

This test examines the movement of the watch only, placing it in two different positions, and subjecting it to a magnetic force of 15,000 gauss. During a time of 30 seconds in each position, the functioning of the movement is audibly checked using a microphone.

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3.   FUNCTION OF WATCH DURING EXPOSURE TO 15,000 GAUSS MAGNETIC FIELD

This test is similar to the second. On this occasion, instead of just the movement being tested, the entire watch is subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss, with the functioning being checked by way of audio. In today’s modern world, magnetism is all around us, in places such as tablets, phones, hairdryers and even the metallic clasps of women’s handbags. Mechanical watches without anti-magnetic innovation can suffer long-term effects in their accuracy when exposed to these magnetic fields.

4.   DEVIATION OF DAILY PRECISION AFTER EXPOSURE TO 15,000 GAUSS MAGNETIC FIELD

This test works out the average deviation of the watch between day 2 and 3 of the first test. The result shows the daily precision of the watch before and after exposure to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss.

5.   WATER RESISTANCE

This test submerges the watch underwater, gradually applying more pressure up the point of the stated water resistance. For certain fake watches, it also goes beyond. This ensures that each watch is properly tested for underwater conditions.

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6.   POWER RESERVE

This test checks the power reserve of the watch by taking pictures at the beginning and end of the expected limit. Checking any deviation again, this proves that each watch functions accurately for its stated time. For wearers, it’s valuable to know that, even after a weekend on the bedside table, your watch will still be performing well.

7.   DEVIATION OF RATE BETWEEN 100% AND 33% OF POWER RESERVE

This test puts the watch in six different positions, similar to each side of a dice. With the watch at full power, the watch spends 30 seconds in each position, with average precision recorded by way of audio . The power reserve is then reduced by two thirds and checked again, to ensure that precision is kept even when the watch is not at full power.

MasterChronometer-METAS-34

8.   DEVIATION OF RATE IN SIX POSITIONS

This test is similar to the previous test, and checks for any deviation in the running time when the watch is placed in six different positions, similar again to each side of a dice. With 30 seconds in each position, the results are recorded through audio. By placing a watch in different positions, we can ensure a watch’s performance no matter what the wearer is doing, whether it’s sitting at a desk or actively playing sport.

What doest it mean for you, the consumer?

Good question ;). The Master Chronometer certification means that Omega does not only tell you that your watch is accurate, anti-magnetic and water resistant but that they actually guarantee that it is. This guarantee can only be given when their test work – including their processes – are audited and tested by an independent party, in this case that is METAS (and COSC). Consumers these days are critical enough to have doubts about slogans and on-liners that are being used in watch advertisements (I remember a Breitling advertisement not too long ago that stated ‘The best chronograph in the world’), but who actually does tell the truth? Initiatives like this will surely help consumers to rely on what a watch brand promises. If you are spending your hard-earned money on a watch, it better is a good one and one that will keep you company for many years to come.

Other brands have similar test procedures and standards, but they do not use any (independent) third party to actually do a certification. For me personally, I don’t rely on brands testing their own processes and work and have it certified by themselves. Certifying yourself doesn’t make much sense to be honest. I hope that other brands will follow and adopt the METAS certification and increase the trust that people can put into their watches.

During the press conference last Wednesday, Omega mentioned that the certification of their Master Chronometer watches would not be charged to the consumer. Of course, we can debate about that with the double price increase we had this year with Omega (one was due to the disconnect between the Swiss Francs and the Euro) in Europe but no separate increases have been made for the Globemaster since its introduction.

We will publish our in-depth Omega Globemaster review soon (with some stunning images taken by Bert, see below) and zoom into detail regarding the new Co-Axial Master Chronometer rated movements and its movement production facility in Villeret.

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Of course, Hayek was the first to receive the Master Chronometer certified Omega Globemaster out of the hands from METAS. The plastic warranty card contains a unique code that you can use to look-up the test results of your specific Omega replica watch (on-line).

Julien Coudray The 10 keys to Julien Coudray

— The discreet Julien Coudray 1518 brand features a set of highly distinctive characteristics. Here are 10 keys to the door of its workshop in Le Locle.

Julien Coudray


All those acquainted with Julien Coudray 1518, raise their hands! Some may be vaguely aware of the brand name, others of its creations that arrive in sparing quantities on the market, and others may know some of the people behind it. On the whole, however, Julien Coudray 1518 remains somewhat mysterious. WorldTempus raises the veil on ten key elements of the Manufacture.

1. An integrated – and shared – Manufacture

Julien Coudray 1518 is a Manufacture that has just reached its fifth anniversary. So how has this integration been achieved so rapidly? Perhaps because like many others, such as Greubel Forsey and its partnership with Complitime, Julien Coudray 1518 operates in tandem with IMH, the technical source of its production. IMH develops and produces for Julien Coudray 1518, but not exclusively so, since the brand has several external clients.

2. A Swiss-Belgian brand

In January 2015, Julien Coudray 1518 was entirely taken over by an independent family shareholder of Belgian nationality, Joris Ide (along with his son Enzo), who already owned the Lebeau-Couraly watch brand that informed connoisseurs noticed in Hall 1.1 at Baselworld this year. The two brands operate in parallel in two very distinct segments, but they are both served by the shared IMH production facility.

3. Snob-free metals

Julien Coudray 1518 specifically precludes from its production all ‘snob’ metals in the literal sense of the term – meaning those that are sin nobilitas, lacking nobility, or commonplace. That is why the youthful brand uses only four metals: white, yellow and pink gold, as well as platinum.

4. Watchmaking ingot

The Manufacture has a very special attribute: all its components are machined from a single one-kilo block of these metals. From this precious ingot, Julien Coudray 1518 carves out the case, hands, as well as many other components that are not made of traditional brass as is generally done in these modern times. In the case of a platinum model, even the bridges are made of platinum.

Julien Coudray

The case and movement come from the same block of platinum – or gold, as in this instance.
© replica rolex watches

5. Bye bye galvano

Julien Coudray 1518 has proscribed any electroplating surface treatments on its creations. Its range will therefore never comprise any rhodium-plated components. All will instead feature a finish – generally a mirror (or specular) polish – applied to the pure metal surface.

6. Four years, four references

Julien Coudray is fond of figures. The brand whose name includes the number 1518 has so far developed and produced four models: the 1515, 1528, 1548 and 1588. Contrary to appearances, these do not refer to dates, but to a century (the 16th) followed by the number of watches to be produced for each reference concerned. The 1515 is thus issued in a 15-piece edition, the 1528 in a 28-piece series, etc. Since Julien Coudray produces only one or two watches per month, this road map will take the firm until at least 2020!

7. Extremely vertical integration

Julien Coudray regroups 30 people exercising 40 different professions, most of which exist individually in traditional Manufactures. Very few however – or in fact none at all – can lay claim to such a ratio between a very small number of employees and an impressively broad range of skills.

Julien Coudray

Enamel and particularly miniature enamel painting are recurrent features on most creations by Julien Coudray 1518.
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8. Boundless tradition

This is a deliberate policy and is observed to the letter: Julien Coudray 1518 honours watchmaking traditions by refusing to use any modern or high-tech materials. By way of example, despite the incomparable breakthrough technological advantages afforded by silicon, the latter finds no place in a Julien Coudray watch movement – or at any rate not for at least a century… until the material itself becomes part of tradition!

9. Horological oil change

Julien Coudray 1518 watches are currently the only models to feature a service indicator in the form of an oil drop appearing through an aperture at 12 o’clock and gradually disappearing after four years as a reminder that it’s time for a maintenance service.

10. Two of everything

Julien Coudray 1518 produces a kit of spare parts for each watch sold. Each numbered kit is stored in a safe and can be used when components need to be replaced in 20, 50, 100 or more years’ time!

Julien Coudray

Each model, such as this Competentia, may be personalised at the customer’s request.
© Julien Coudray